Legend has it that the city was founded by the inhabitants of Santorini who were fleeing from famine around the end of the 7th century BC. It ranks as the best preserved of the Greek cities in Cyrenaica with its temples, tombs, agora, gymnasium and theatre originally modelled on those at Delphi. The Pentapolis (five cities) of the region of Cyrenaica also included the colonies of Apollonia, Tolemaide, Tokra and Berenice, today’s Benghazi. In addition to the spectacular Greek ruins,Cyrene is in a stunning location high on a bluff overlooking the sea.

The city covers a huge area and is still only partially excavated although enough of the city has been uncovered to give the visitor an impression of its original appearance without the over-restored look that detracts from so many classical archaeological sites. Many public, civil and religious buildings face onto the agora and on a woody hill stand the grand ruins of the Temple of Zeus, the largest in Africa of the Doric style with its colonnade almost completely intact. In the lower part of the city is the large sanctuary of Apollo with the sacred spring and the oldest temple of Cyrene (7th century BC).

Other monuments to visit are the acropolis, the large gymnasium and the necropolis excavated along the mountainside that confirms the importance and wealth of the ancient city, as well as the tomb of Batto, mythical founder of Cyrene. The city was abandoned after the Arab conquest.
 

 Apollonia, today called Susa, was founded to provide a port for nearby Cyrene. In a superb seashore location, its colonnades of white marble stand out against the background of a surprisingly blue sea. There are several structures worthy of note from Greek, Roman and Byzantine times: the imposing Hellenic walls, the acropolis, three Roman basilicas converted into Byzantine churches, a Greek theatre, Roman baths and the Ducal Palace.  
   
   
     
   Founded as the second city of the Pentapolis in the 3rd century BC on the site of an ancient seaport, Tolemaide is a large and evocative archaeological site. The west gate of the city is guarded by two towers and underneath the agora-forum runs a tunnel system of cisterns with arched vaults. Amongst the monuments to visit are the House of the Four Seasons, named for the mosaics found here, the theatre decorated with aquatic  
     
 scenes, the public baths, the House of Columns, the most famous building of Tolemaide that was probably the governor’s residence and centred around a large peristyle with columns on two levels in the middle of which was the garden and a large mirror of water. Numerous floor mosaics and the heating system are evidence of the splendour and wealth of this residence.

Benghazi

This is the second largest city in Libya and the economic and commercial centre of Cyrenaica. Benghazi was partially destroyed by bombardments during World War II and today displays little of its ancient heritage as almost nothing remains of the buildings that once adorned the city. It is located on the eastern edge of the Gulf of Sirt and surrounded by a lush mountainous region. There are numerous Greek ruins along the coast and good bathing beaches nearby.

The covered souqs are open daily but come alive on Friday morning when the whole city seems to meet for shopping. The main market sells all manner of clothes and household goods while close by is a pedestrian precinct of small shops and cafes. Freedom Square is one of the city’s most enchanting spots containing the evocative Old Town Hall and the Atig Mosque.